week two - we can be critics too

Stockpot Broiler at Red Tail Golf Course Sunday 11

It started off great. The restaurant was beautiful with a view of sunset over the golf course. On arriving, having informed our reservation that we were celebrating an anniversary, we were handed an envelope containing a Happy Anniversary card on Stockpot stationary, signed colored markers by .... who knows. 

I liked last week's champagne better.

Once seated, I ordered a sparkling wine cocktail with Absolut grapefruit and cranberry. It arrived a thing of scarlet beauty in a shapely glass, and, as the waitress said, "very refreshing." 

H chose this restaurant because the menu includes bouillabaisse, his favorite, and from my perspective, offered many tempting choices. Then the bread was served. In our family, good bread is an essential element. It's difficult to buy bread better than what H can bake, but a good effort is always appreciated. The bread served (with herb garlic butter) was clearly not baked in house. Not a good sign.

H ordered the bouillabaisse, and I ordered chicken marsala (one of my favorite dishes) served on black pepper linguini. We chose not to order appetizers etc., from a tempting assortment of possibilities - so there would be room for dessert. 

The second clue arrived with the bouillabaisse. This is dungeons crab season in Oregon. However, the chunk of crab on H's bowl was snow crab. In other words, not fresh and local.  Plainly stated, this was disappointing. despite this, H was happier than me - there was plenty of good seafood, well cooked in flavorful broth. However, the spoon provided with too small for enjoying the soup. My dish was chicken tossed in an oddly sweet sauce, not chicken marsala. The pasta was undercooked and heavy and flecked with black pepper. Clearly, corporate food - not the work of a chef. 

For dessert we ordered Limoncello Cake with berries. It was cake - though of no particular flavor with a dense cream (likely not dairy) served with a hearty serving of 6 blueberries. 

H described our experience perfectly, "everything bore a close resemblance to what we expected."

Nonetheless, we had a very good time - there is something freeing about knowing we will have lots of opportunities to try new places, discover what we like and what to look for as clues of what to expect. And to form our own opinions as part of our experience. This place, though highly rated, was not our slice of bread. Next up we will be finding small, non-corporate related restaurants to try. 

Totl $108.50

 

  Another, but different kind of ... inspiring idea

January 12, 2026

This year marks fifty years of marriage for H and me.  Certainly, something to celebrate - but how? That was the topic of several conversations over the holidays. After eliminating a cruise (everybody gets sick), long travels, (what about the dogs?), and a few other ideas, H arrived at a truly inspired idea.  

Take the budget we might spend on a major (but limited time) adventure and use it for a weekly night out to some of the great restaurants and venues in Portland and surrounding areas. A year of weekly great meals at places that we might never have had the opportunity or motivation to enjoy in the past feels like a perfect way to celebrate. 

We both love this idea - each for our own reasons. For me, I love a chance to get dressed up, see new faces, visit new places. For us both is means something to look forward to and plan every week, and of course, the chance to eat and explore great food and cooking. The plan is each of us gets to choose a place and plan the details. 

Last week, the first Sunday in January, we started off at Laurelhurst Market, my choice. A good omen, in the form of a rainbow, shined on us as we left the house. 

Laurelhurst Market turned out to be a great choice - the glass display case filled with charcuterie and meats of all kinds set the tone for real food and human hands doing the cooking. We had marked anniversary as our special occasion on our reservation (we will do this every time) and were greeted with glasses of champagne.

In all ways, service, atmosphere, food and enjoyment, this place did not disappoint. The charcuterie board, a selection of excellent pates, cold cuts and pickled vegetables would have been enough, but the steak (we shared) was tender and flavor rich. Jut what I was hoping for. Top this off with chocolate mousse for dessert, and a good time was had by all.

When we left, we took a moment to admire the full moon shining on us.

We rate this place a 9 /10. My only nit was choosing a cocktail with smoked ice. I found that weird - I'll not choose that again, though I will continue to try new cocktails as often as possible.  The total with tip $126.  We'd definitely go back. 

Israel 6: The Dead Sea

This was one of the best and most anticipated parts of our trip. I have photographs of my mother grinning and slathered in the healing black mud associated with a visit to the Dead Sea spas. And, another, far more recent of my daughter in much the same pose. Also, I have pictures of them floating in the saline waters. I have always wanted to swim here.

One of the concerns I had about our trip was how we would get from place to place. As it turned out, and much to my relief, bus transportation was excellent and affordable. We took an early bus that brought us  past the beautiful Ein Gedi Kibbutz and gave us a look at Masada, a place we had hoped to visit. However, the outside temperature was 107 degrees. We took this ascent off our itinerary and headed to the beach and the hotel district in Ein Bokek. 

I had been concerned about the proper stop to get off, and had mentioned to Hank that I would ask the bus driver when we got closer to the area. However, as the Dead Sea came in sight, so did our hotel, the Crowne Plaza. I pointed this out to Hank, hopped up and got off the bus, assuming he was right behind. Our luggage was in the underbus storage - far in the back. I had managed to reach mine, and was going for H's when suddenly, the bus pulled away. "My husband is still on there," I exclaimed to the group of Hebrew speaking passengers who had disembarked with me. One offered his phone - but I figured (hoped?) H would notice I was gone. Anyway, I had my luggage, my passport and a reservation …

Several minutes after I rolled into the lobby, he arrived. Let's just say this is not the first time we've mixed our signals. 

The first thing that struck me about this area was its incredible color. The world looked like an abstract painting done in pastels. 

The view from our tenth story windows was a never ending pleasure. And so was the water - I could not get enough of the weirdly oily, warm, salty buoyant sea. Warning signs say to stay in no more than 30 minutes at a time, and there are clocks in easy sea view. I maxed out every time - then headed immediately to wash off in the beach showers. Any salt remaining quickly became pretzel type crystals. Kosher salt anyone? 


The other awesome amenity of our stay was the FOOD. We were really hungry for dinner on our first night. We had purchased dinner tickets, but were unprepared for the array of cold dishes arranged on buffet tables, hot foods of every description, and incredible desserts- all kosher. As I mentioned earlier, kosher food does not mix meat and dairy, so I was particularly impressed by the variety of creamy desserts made without cream. We could hardly wait to see what would appear on the breakfast buffet - now that we knew what an Israeli breakfast consists of. 

Our second night, Friday, was Israel Independence Day, the 70th anniversary. The hotel was filled with celebrants, and decked out in blue and white balloons. The dessert table did not disappoint.

This day, April 18, was also the anniversary of my mother's death. Walking through the lobby I came across a table covered in Yahrzeit (memorial candles). I am sure my mother was pleased and surprised to find her candle glowing in Israel this year.

This trip had so many wonderful moments - but the one that touched me most happened as I was walking out of the water after a mid morning dip. Many of the hotel guests were Russian speakers. I could not tell (or understand) if they were travelers or emigres, however, I noticed a group of about a dozen standing together in the water. As I passed them by, on this memorial day, I heard singing, and turned to see the group, now formed in a circle, singing Hatikvah, (the Hope) the Israel national anthem, in Hebrew, hands on heart. 

In the evenings, after dinner, Hank and I loved strolling out to the covered area over the water to watch the colors change as the day turn to evening. The air was soft, dry and warm. Sitting on the Israel side, we noticed lights coming on across the water …  easy swimming distance away - in Jordan, another country. Another world. I loved our three days here … 

5: Israel Museum

The Israel Museum is described as an Encyclopedic Collection. This means that it has an incredibly broad variety of exhibits, including Chanukah menorahs, actual parts of synagogues from other parts of the world, cultural clothing from many areas, archeological displays, paintings, sculpture, a beautifully painted Sukkah, necklaces worn by Jewish brides in Yemen; and a nail attesting to the practice of crucifixion in Jesus’ time. An urn-shaped building on the grounds of the museum, the Shrine of the Book, houses the Dead Sea Scrolls and artifacts discovered at Masada. 

The museum is on a hill with a sweeping view of Jerusalem. Since it was a beautiful Sunday morning, we decided to walk there from our hotel - about 30 minutes through lovely neighborhoods and a park, and right past the Knesset, the Israeli Supreme Court, and the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. Once at the museum we took advantage of several guided tours, learned a lot, and, at the end of a long day of walking around, took a cab back to our hotel in time to head out for dinner.

On a beautiful Sunday evening, the Jewish Quarter was lively with families, kids, music, shops and places to snack or dine. When we approached the restaurant we had chosen, we were greeted at the entrance by a young woman who handed us two menus - there were two separate restaurants here - one for meat, and one for dairy. This was a unique way to keep kosher - which requires the separation of milk and meat. We chose the meat side - filled with people of every age, and in a variety of head coverings - each which tells its own story about the identity of the wearer. I could not resist - I had chicken soup. It was great.

After dinner we headed back to our hotel to pack and get ready for the next stop on our adventure - the Dead Sea.

OLD CITY 4

The fabulous Shabbat of a Lifetime dinner meant that we got back to our hotel late - after midnight and very full of the great dinner. This did not bode well for a good night's sleep. Nonetheless, bright and early, or actually bleary and early, Hank headed down the street to bring us coffee to have with the pastries we had prepared on Friday - knowing that most places in the area would be closed for Shabbat. I sat on our balcony, enjoying breakfast and the peace of the quiet streets. Then we headed back to the Old City. Walking a different route, we entered the City via a flight of stairs in the same gold stone as the walls.

Our first stop was the City of David Museum to see the archaeological  excavations and the art  in the ancient citadel.  This visit involved endless stairs, but the walls made for great views of Jerusalem all around - a fascinating mix of the ancient and the modern world.

My next discovery, before heading back into the Souk (the covered market), is how delicious a combination of fresh squeezed orange and pomegranate juice can be when you are hot and thirsty. It was good that we refreshed ourselves, because on this Saturday, the souk was teeming with people.

One of the things that makes Jerusalem so intriguing is the mix of cultures,  religions, beliefs and costumes. On this day, a full spectrum was to be found. On the Via Dolorosa, (The Way of the Cross) where Christ is believed to have walked to the crucifixion, a large community of Christians were walking and kneeling the stations of the cross on one side of the narrow passage, while surging crowds of tourists, explored the shops on each side, and men and women in Arab garb bought vegetables and bread from the carts that barged through all. Overall, drums and music throbbed, people yelled, the sound, the heat and the intensity were hard to bear. Nonetheless, on our way out I managed to explore a few of the incredible variety of shops and goods to be had. 

We left the Old City through the Damascus Gate, which put us in the Arab Quarter in East Jerusalem - an authentic market lined with stalls of spices, coffee, bakeries, produce and lots more. From here, we walked up a long hill, back to our hotel - stopping for lunch - a gigantic, delicious and utterly fresh salad served with excellent bread. Then a nap.

At dinner time, as Shabbat was drawing to a close, we walked around our "neighborhood," Jaffa Square, through new and ancient streets and buildings. Dinner was at a Georgian Restaurant - Russian influences, in an old garden off the street. We ate a kind of dumpling - filled with meat and broth, and were informed that we ate them incorrectly - with knife and fork, instead on out of hands. Tourists!

We went back to the Old City on Monday - which turns out to be a Bar Mitzvah day. As we stood on the wall looking down, we heard music- loud, shofars blowing, drumming - and one after another joyful groups - each carrying canopies, under which the 13 year old boy was surrounded by loving and cheering family. The energy was palpable - what a way to become a man.

We then wandered the city through the Armenian Quarter and back to the Jewish Quarter where we talked with a young rabbinical student from New Jersey, studying in one of the Orthodox yeshivas here. It was wonderful to speak English and learn more about all that we were seeing. Then, back up the hill. We needed to make plans and reservations for the next part of our trip.


In my next post I will write about the Israel Museum …. stand by

Three: Old City Jerusalem

As we walked from our hotel towards the Jaffa Gate and our first steps into the Old City the walls begin to appear, ancient, golden, imposing. As soon as you enter the Gate, you are on David Street, a busy market with shops that sell religious items, souvenirs, maps, snacks, fresh squeezed juice and maps. Then you begin to pass into the Souk, a covered bazaar lined with shops and teeming with people. Watch your step on the cobbles and stairs. 

We followed signs, passing beautiful doorways and alleys, jewelry, leather, and embroidered goods, to a small side street that led to Ha-Kotel, the Western Wall. Once their, yelling men directed me to the Women's side. I washed my hands at an ancient well, and simply walked to the wall - where once both my mother and my daughter have been. I had some things to say there, among the crowd of women - at the wall, and in chairs. Then, I had a smiling picture taken - joyful to be here.

Click on the arrow to see a slide show of some of what we saw on this day.

Israel TWO: To Jerusalem April 19

Our hotel – GilGal is blocks from the beach, has beautiful mosaic art depicting bible scenes in several locations. It also has a roof garden with a spectacular view of the city and the Mediterranean Sea. And it was our introduction to the spectacular Israeli breakfast. I promise there will be lots more about food later - this photo is just one of the five laden with amazing things to eat.

View from rooftop

On our cab ride from the airport, our driver told us that today a siren would sound at precisely 10 AM – two minutes of silence in memory of the Holocaust. He told us that everyone throughout the country stops what they are doing and stands still. To be part of this, we climbed to the roof garden. The siren blared – cars on the street below stopped and people stepped out to stand together. I saw paddlers on the sea, stop and stand. I saw people on rooftops, in windows. I had goosebumps.

It was time to head to Jerusalem. 

 Any talk of travel and navigation is talk of Hank. In order to have access to all cellular data of maps and schedules, he purchased an Israeli data plan. This meant he could lead us to the correct bus stop, to the bus station, and to our perfectly timed bus to Jerusalem. And anywhere else we wanted to go. The bus station was our first opportunity to really see the young Israeli soldiers, men and women, with their big guns that swing from their shoulders like oversized purses.

The one hour trip brought us through amazingly lush  green and treed areas, and housing communities built from the golden stone that looks like they sprang from the hills. 

As it was Friday, and the start of Shabbat effects bus transportation, we took a cab to our Apartment Hotel – Hillel 11, in walking distance of the Old City and a great neighborhood. Thanks to all who made it clear we needed to be by the Jaffa Gate. This great location made our four days in Jerusalem perfect. Our lovely little apartment included a balcony where I could look out over the streets. 

After gathering a few supplies at the local bakery and grocery store for tomorrow, when many places would be closed, we walked down the hill, through the ultramodern, upscale Mamilla Mall, up ancient stairs and through the Jaffa Gate for our first visit to the Old City. Our goal was  the Western Wall. 

We spent four days in Jerusalem, three of them largely in the Old City - so I will write about our experiences in a separate piece. The next event on our calendar was to attend a Shabbat of a Lifetime dinner.

"The Shabbat of a Lifetime program offers an opportunity for incoming tourists of all backgrounds to experience an authentic Shabbat (Jewish Sabbath) at the home of a host family in the heart of Jerusalem. Shabbat of a Lifetime participants receive an informative introduction to Shabbat while dining on a five-course meal with their hosts." 

This had been recommended by our daughter, who had enjoyed hers. It turned out to be a highlight of our trip. We had been instructed to meet our host at the Museum of Islamic Art at 8 pm. This was about a half-hour walk through peaceful streets on a beautiful warm Shabbat evening. All around us families were walking too. To their own dinners we were sure. And everywhere we saw cats - many waiting patiently in groups for the dinners they hoped would appear from the homes that lined the streets.

The evening was a complete surprise. I had anticipated others like ourselves wanting to have a Jewish experience in Israel. Nine guests arrived to our meeting place - all early. A young Chinese man who works in Canada, traveling alone before he starts new job. “Are you Jewish – I asked. Why was he doing this?

Young blond couple from Netherlands – she a neurobiologist, he a new graduate wanting to learn more about Jewish culture through travel. A man from Netherlands- traveling alone, healing a broken heart. 

Two women from Yakima – evangelical Christians. One had been to Israel before. She had a message from God to come back, and bring her friend. Lovely women on a tour of religious and spiritual places. We later met them again on the street. 

A young woman from the Philippines who studies Hebrew at the University. She did not want to spend Shabbat alone. And Hank and me. 

I was the only Jew except for our hosts, Batya and Chaim, a couple in their 30’s, who have a 4 year old and baby daughter. This lovely family opened their home and provided a traditional Shabbat with Kiddush, and blessings over the challah and wine, and a full Friday night meal. I was astonished to see the table covered with small plates containing salads and pickles and hummus.  For me, the Israeli way of kosher eating was one of the great revelations of the trip. 

There was much information, and learning, and wonderful conversation that went beyond the time we were meant to leave. And an incredible creamy chocolate dessert that made me wonder how it could be part of a kosher meat meal. I had lots to learn.

A truly memorable evening. The perfect end to a perfect day in Jerusalem.