Israel TWO: To Jerusalem April 19

Our hotel – GilGal is blocks from the beach, has beautiful mosaic art depicting bible scenes in several locations. It also has a roof garden with a spectacular view of the city and the Mediterranean Sea. And it was our introduction to the spectacular Israeli breakfast. I promise there will be lots more about food later - this photo is just one of the five laden with amazing things to eat.

View from rooftop

On our cab ride from the airport, our driver told us that today a siren would sound at precisely 10 AM – two minutes of silence in memory of the Holocaust. He told us that everyone throughout the country stops what they are doing and stands still. To be part of this, we climbed to the roof garden. The siren blared – cars on the street below stopped and people stepped out to stand together. I saw paddlers on the sea, stop and stand. I saw people on rooftops, in windows. I had goosebumps.

It was time to head to Jerusalem. 

 Any talk of travel and navigation is talk of Hank. In order to have access to all cellular data of maps and schedules, he purchased an Israeli data plan. This meant he could lead us to the correct bus stop, to the bus station, and to our perfectly timed bus to Jerusalem. And anywhere else we wanted to go. The bus station was our first opportunity to really see the young Israeli soldiers, men and women, with their big guns that swing from their shoulders like oversized purses.

The one hour trip brought us through amazingly lush  green and treed areas, and housing communities built from the golden stone that looks like they sprang from the hills. 

As it was Friday, and the start of Shabbat effects bus transportation, we took a cab to our Apartment Hotel – Hillel 11, in walking distance of the Old City and a great neighborhood. Thanks to all who made it clear we needed to be by the Jaffa Gate. This great location made our four days in Jerusalem perfect. Our lovely little apartment included a balcony where I could look out over the streets. 

After gathering a few supplies at the local bakery and grocery store for tomorrow, when many places would be closed, we walked down the hill, through the ultramodern, upscale Mamilla Mall, up ancient stairs and through the Jaffa Gate for our first visit to the Old City. Our goal was  the Western Wall. 

We spent four days in Jerusalem, three of them largely in the Old City - so I will write about our experiences in a separate piece. The next event on our calendar was to attend a Shabbat of a Lifetime dinner.

"The Shabbat of a Lifetime program offers an opportunity for incoming tourists of all backgrounds to experience an authentic Shabbat (Jewish Sabbath) at the home of a host family in the heart of Jerusalem. Shabbat of a Lifetime participants receive an informative introduction to Shabbat while dining on a five-course meal with their hosts." 

This had been recommended by our daughter, who had enjoyed hers. It turned out to be a highlight of our trip. We had been instructed to meet our host at the Museum of Islamic Art at 8 pm. This was about a half-hour walk through peaceful streets on a beautiful warm Shabbat evening. All around us families were walking too. To their own dinners we were sure. And everywhere we saw cats - many waiting patiently in groups for the dinners they hoped would appear from the homes that lined the streets.

The evening was a complete surprise. I had anticipated others like ourselves wanting to have a Jewish experience in Israel. Nine guests arrived to our meeting place - all early. A young Chinese man who works in Canada, traveling alone before he starts new job. “Are you Jewish – I asked. Why was he doing this?

Young blond couple from Netherlands – she a neurobiologist, he a new graduate wanting to learn more about Jewish culture through travel. A man from Netherlands- traveling alone, healing a broken heart. 

Two women from Yakima – evangelical Christians. One had been to Israel before. She had a message from God to come back, and bring her friend. Lovely women on a tour of religious and spiritual places. We later met them again on the street. 

A young woman from the Philippines who studies Hebrew at the University. She did not want to spend Shabbat alone. And Hank and me. 

I was the only Jew except for our hosts, Batya and Chaim, a couple in their 30’s, who have a 4 year old and baby daughter. This lovely family opened their home and provided a traditional Shabbat with Kiddush, and blessings over the challah and wine, and a full Friday night meal. I was astonished to see the table covered with small plates containing salads and pickles and hummus.  For me, the Israeli way of kosher eating was one of the great revelations of the trip. 

There was much information, and learning, and wonderful conversation that went beyond the time we were meant to leave. And an incredible creamy chocolate dessert that made me wonder how it could be part of a kosher meat meal. I had lots to learn.

A truly memorable evening. The perfect end to a perfect day in Jerusalem.