Sunday, May 20, 2018

Israel 6: The Dead Sea

This was one of the best and most anticipated parts of our trip. I have photographs of my mother grinning and slathered in the healing black mud associated with a visit to the Dead Sea spas. And, another, far more recent of my daughter in much the same pose. Also, I have pictures of them floating in the saline waters. I have always wanted to swim here.

One of the concerns I had about our trip was how we would get from place to place. As it turned out, and much to my relief, bus transportation was excellent and affordable. We took an early bus that brought us  past the beautiful Ein Gedi Kibbutz and gave us a look at Masada, a place we had hoped to visit. However, the outside temperature was 107 degrees. We took this ascent off our itinerary and headed to the beach and the hotel district in Ein Bokek. 

I
had been concerned about the proper stop to get off, and had mentioned to Hank that I would ask the bus driver when we got closer to the area. However, as the Dead Sea came in sight, so did our hotel, the Crowne Plaza. I pointed this out to Hank, hopped up and got off the bus, assuming he was right behind. Our luggage was in the underbus storage - far in the back. I had managed to reach mine, and was going for H's when suddenly, the bus pulled away. "My husband is still on there," I exclaimed to the group of Hebrew speaking passengers who had disembarked with me. One offered his phone - but I figured (hoped?) H would notice I was gone. Anyway, I had my luggage, my passport and a reservation …

Several minutes after I rolled into the lobby, he arrived. Let's just say this is not the first time we've mixed our signals. 


The first thing that struck me about this area was its incredible color. The world looked like an abstract painting done in pastels. 

The view from our tenth story windows was a never ending pleasure. And so was the water - I could not get enough of the weirdly oily, warm, salty buoyant sea. Warning signs say to stay in no more than 30 minutes at a time, and there are clocks in easy sea view. I maxed out every time - then headed immediately to wash off in the beach showers. Any salt remaining quickly became pretzel type crystals. Kosher salt anyone? 


The other awesome amenity of our stay was the FOOD. We were really hungry for dinner on our first night. We had purchased dinner tickets, but were unprepared for the array of cold dishes arranged on buffet tables, hot foods of every description, and incredible desserts- all kosher. As I mentioned earlier, kosher food does not mix meat and dairy, so I was particularly impressed by the variety of creamy desserts made without cream. We could hardly wait to see what would appear on the breakfast buffet - now that we knew what an Israeli breakfast consists of. 

Our second night, Friday, was Israel Independence Day, the 70th anniversary. The hotel was filled with celebrants, and decked out in blue and white balloons. The dessert table did not disappoint.

This day, April 18, was also the anniversary of my mother's death. Walking through the lobby I came across a table covered in Yahrzeit (memorial candles). I am sure my mother was pleased and surprised to find her candle glowing in Israel this year.

This trip had so many wonderful moments - but the one that touched me most happened as I was walking out of the water after a mid morning dip. Many of the hotel guests were Russian speakers. I could not tell (or understand) if they were travelers or emigres, however, I noticed a group of about a dozen standing together in the water. As I passed them by, on this memorial day, I heard singing, and turned to see the group, now formed in a circle, singing Hatikvah, (the Hope) the Israel national anthem, in Hebrew, hands on heart. 

In the evenings, after dinner, Hank and I loved strolling out to the covered area over the water to watch the colors change as the day turn to evening. The air was soft, dry and warm. Sitting on the Israel side, we noticed lights coming on across the water …  easy swimming distance away - in Jordan, another country. Another world. I loved our three days here … 

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