Yes (big) Sur. We Had Fun Storming the Castle

Happy New Years. We are "back on the grid" after exciting days of adventure at Big Sur and San Simeon. Several days ago, I am losing track, we started our day at Pinto Lake Park, retraced our route back through Monterey and into Carmel. Since it was still within the Christmas weekend, and the weather was perfect, the small, gorgeous town was absolutely packed with people. The road into the town is lined with charming homes set into lush and lovely gardens. The atmosphere just oozes California. "Why don't we live here?" I keep asking. I guess the answer is simple ... millions of reasons.

As we went through town I spotted several art galleries (Carmel is noted for them). While H graciously circled in the camper (no where to even pull in, much less park) I visited two. The Gallery Elite took my breath away. Its a two story, collection of paintings by artists from around the world. A stunning gathering of color and landscape and style. Painting run in the tens of thousands ... next door was the Charles Schultz (peanuts) gallery, which I regret I could not stay long enough to explore. None the less, the painted beauty on the walls set the tone for what was to come next. BIG SUR.

We had been warned that Route One along the Pacific Coast is a rough road. It is. Miles of narrow, curving, climbing and plummeting. What no one adequately described is the STUNNING beauty of the views. On this perfect clear blue day, the sun polished the ocean to a silver sheen and threw handfuls of diamonds onto the surface, so bright it almost hurt my eyes. The ocean and the sky stretch endlessly, a thousand mile view. As H drove, I spotted whales, their spray and backs perfectly clear in the crystal air. We stopped to admire elephant seals lolling and honking on the beach and watched sea birds and surfers swooping in and out of the surf.

View from our camp on Nacimiento Road

Our goal was a campsite called Limekiln. I have stayed at a Limekiln camp in the San Juan's so this seemed like a good place. There is very little camping for RV's along this stretch of road, and no internet service. We were not able to make a reservation earlier, but chose what was the most logical stopping point in our schedule. We try to be camped before dark.

There were hordes of people along the route, crowding vistas, and the occasional café and service cluster.  There were many cars, but few
campers. It is easy to see that anything much bigger than our cute little camper would really struggle with this road.

Long story short, no room at the campsite. We were directed to Nacimiento-Ferguson Road, about three miles away, where we were told we could just park in any turnout and spend the night. The road made the highway seem like a straightaway. We climbed and climbed, curving around the gold and green hills into the mountains, in almost constant view of the ocean, still sparkling away. I was relieved to see that others were parked along the way, doing what we were doing.

Our site had a vista of the ocean between two hills - oh beauty. This was our first opportunity to camp off the grid; no services, no connections, depending only on the power and comfort of the camper. It was also a chance to try some of our gadgets (batteries) our for the first time. We parked just before sunset, the air so clear (and so warm) that I was able to see deer walking along the ridge far, far in the distance. The silence and peace wrapped itself around us and we spent a lovely night and early morning just drinking in the beauty.

Then, down the hill again - so steep the brakes were smoking hot. Next stop along the road, Hearst Castle, looming high on the hill. A stop at the visitor center yielded tickets for a Tuesday tour of the Grand Rooms (this was Sunday). After the crowded camping conditions above, we were concerned about what lay ahead - but three miles south of the castle, on a road where zebras (!) grazed in the hills, is San Simeon camp grounds. Beautiful, lots of available spaces, easy beach access, but no services. By the way, due to the drought, the only 'facilities' are "honey pots." There are faucets for drinking water however.  I find I like the lack of connection in every sense.

I think I want a pool like this

On Tuesday we had fun storming the castle and learning a little about William Randolph Hearst and Julia Morgan (his architect). If only for the ride up the hills over the ocean - five miles of snaking roads, it was worth the trip. The castle itself is beyond comprehension - and very interesting.

New Year's eve found us in need of recharging and refilling after our days in the wild. Morro Bay was the next big town. Who knew how beautiful it would be. So, here we are ... pix later. Enjoying yet another gorgeous blue sky day on the ocean - walking on the beach and eating delicious seafood. I even did two loads of laundry today, getting the year off to a clean start.

Its the beginning of a new year, new month, and new adventure. We will see what tomorrow brings. I can hardly wait.