Dry Camping

January 24, 2015

I had never even heard the words dry camping in combination until recently, but sometime last year, when the van was new to us, a very intrepid friend came to visit and told us of her adventures in a similar vehicle, in which she said she could camp anywhere – even the side of the road, the desert or the woods. She could do this because the van was self-contained – it had its own lights, water and propane stove. I heard what she said, imagined her in the wilds of nowhere, but I could not imagine myself camping anywhere but the types of places I had already seen – surrounded by others, in contact with “civilization.”

How wrong I was! And, how glad I am to have experienced dry camping for myself. I wrote about the first time, back in Big Sur on the mountainside over the ocean. This was a matter of necessity. But, then our entire time in Carpinteria, we camped without connecting to water, electricity and Wi-Fi, hardly a hardship because all we needed was either in the camp or the town.  And it greatly reduced our nightly costs.  
But, the night after we left the beach, I got my first taste of really DRY camping – a night on the desert – at the South foot of Joshua Tree National Park.

Just as the sun was setting we pulled down a dusty desert road off the highway and saw several other campers, spread across the sand. We pulled in (no sign-up, no fee) and parked just in time to see the sun set. The night sky offered us a personal planetarium experience, howling coyotes were the only sounds. We woke as the sun began to rise, lighting the desert with pastel light and a soft wind.  The dogs loved it too.

That day, we drove through Box Canyon, the desert road defined by soaring and varied rock formations unlike anything I have seen. We spent the afternoon and the night at the Salton Sea. Here too, we camped dry – with no service, but a few other vehicles around us, and access to really nice bathrooms and showers. There was little to see and do at the Salton Sea, so we headed out of California to Arizona and family. What a great time we had in Scottsdale. Great food, great wine, great company, great citrus and great fun. (Thank you Jaki.)  A highlight for me was our trip to the Phoenix Museum of Art where I got to see work by some of my favorite abstract expressionists. Lovely museum.

Yesterday, slightly spoiled by “normal” life, we headed out of Scottsdale, stopped for supplies, and drove south toward Tucson and the Pima Air and Space Museum high on H’s list of things to see.  We arrived in Tucson too late for a full visit to the museum, so we headed to Colossal Cave Mountain Park. Camping was ten dollars for the night, and talk about dry – we spent the night high up in the mountains, surrounded by cactus; saguaro, prickly pear, barrel and aloe (that I recognized) as well as mesquite. We were the only ones in the entire park. The only creature we saw was a beautiful hawk. The only way to describe this experience is to compare it to backpacking in a camper – spooky, self-sufficient and spectacular at the same time.

I am surprised to discover that we enjoy the simplicity of dry camping. The water we use is the water we carry. This means that I pay attention to how much is used for washing dishes and flushing the potty. Most places, even without services, have places to dump “grey and black” water, and hoses to fill tanks. Not all of course, so we need to be aware of the amount of water we carry. When we are connected to electricity, I have access to our combination microwave /convection oven. Without connection to electricity get power to run lights and refrigerator, heat and hot water from battery and propane.  We depend on our propane stove and (yikes) pots and pans for cooking. I have found that a pressure cooker is a great tool for cooking yummy food with little energy. Some mornings what I miss the most is toast.

On the plus side, the absence of connection means the absence of TV and other outside noise and news. We have our Iphones so we are not completely detached; except for nights like the one in Colossal Caves, where there is no service of any kind. The longer we go without TV etc, the less we miss it. It is surprising how much we find to talk about, how many books we can read, how peaceful the silence can be and how competitive we are becoming at 500 Rummy.

Most of all, I find we are both greatly appreciative of how little we need to be comfortable, interested and content with what we have.

I am in Love: With a Place

The surf is high today; the ocean roaring. Waves, long curls, are catching the sun and becoming transparent turquoise with sand, surfers, sea birds and seals showing in the light before they crash into the shore in long white spuming lines, like piano scales, all 88 keys, made of foam and light.

We have been camping at Carpinteria State Beach for one week, plus the day we spent here before LA. It was that first day here when I knew I had fallen in love with this place. It is not only the expansive and accessible beach, the tide pools that appear and disappear, the sunsets that are different and exquisite every day. It is more than the opportunity to watch the sunrise from my bed in the camper on the beach, or wake in the night and see the moon and stars through the sky light. There is something about this place. I have never before experienced this sense of being just where I am meant to be. I can only describe the feeling as love.

Rosco Digs the Beach

I guess it is fair to add, that beach vacations are a key part of our happiest family stories. Whether Goa, Florida or the Oregon Coast, our family loves the ocean and the sand. Also, our family history is steeped in the love of all things citrus, so I think I was predisposed to love being here - but still, what I feel is more than just happy vacation.



This beautiful beach park is incredibly well planned and maintained (even hot water sinks for washing dishes!), and our beach front spot is truly prime real estate. But even beyond my love of the beach and the sun and the water, I am crazy about the town. There is everything we need here.  A library where we go to charge our laptop, read our mail and check out the newspapers; an artisan bakery with bread worth driving a thousand miles for, a great big Albertson’s where they grill tri-tip steaks, steam your sea food, and sell vodka! A farm cart loaded with the most delicious organic mandarins, ruby lettuce and avocados.  There is a great second hand book store, and when I needed help with a knitting project, there is a shop for that as well. There are charming shops and lovely restaurants and fabulous places to walk.

On a rainy day (yes there have been some, (I celebrate them for the good of this thirsty state) we were close to Santa Barbara and an afternoon spent looking at expressionist and Asian art at the Santa Barbara Museum of Art.

If all of this were not enough, there is sunset Tai Chi and Chi Gong on the beach, as well as a groups of plein air painters out this morning. However, what has taken me completely by surprise is the neighborhood – a short walk across the railroad tracks is like finding Bizarro Rivergrove (my town). It is all the same, except with different plants in the garden. It is the oddest feeling, but the neighborhood, the age and design of the houses, the lot sizes and layout, the cars in the driveways, the power poles on the corners, the feel of the streets, even the colors look exactly like my neighborhood – and I feel right at home.

Because the weather is so glorious, we spend lots of time walking – the beach of course at sunset, and all afternoon for sunning and playing in the water, but in between, I can’t resist wandering around the streets, imagining my house here, with an orange laden tree, and a lemon tree and a sprawling avocado, and several enormous aloe and cacti plants in place of my apple and pear trees. I am enchanted, and by the way, so is H. We know we will move on, and perhaps find another magical connection, but not just yet. The weekend promises perfect weather, and as everyone I meet says, it doesn’t get better than this.

LA: A little bit La La and a Long Day

So, to continue ... LA, and our destinations for parts and repair, were still more than 100 miles down the road. It was quite warm and very sunny. I hated to leave our glorious beach. The van was definitely struggling on the hills (I think I can I think I can) but H stayed calm and after several hours, we arrived in Los Angeles. Along the way we kept reminding ourselves that if we broke down, we were getting closer to the repairs at Galpin Motor - the Ford repair place highly recommended.

We were not sure where we would stay that night- and arrived in Van Nuys, in late
afternoon to ask if you could camp on the Ford lot. H came out of the place looking bemused. Days earlier, he had spent several hours on the phone - giving details about the van, the VIN number, the problem, the potential parts we might need, and more. Several times he offered to email the information, but the woman on the phone insisted on taking all info by phone - repeating and repeating the details. After all of this, and our very long drive, Galpin Motors informed H that they would not work on the van - its too old! This was not good. In fact, H the unflappable was pretty pissed.

However, some luck was on our side. A quick google map search showed that we were just minutes away from LA's "Largest and Safest" RV park. I called and our spot was waiting. I
have spent very little time in Los Angeles, but this RV park fulfilled my stereotypes perfectly. Entering the camp office I was greeted with warmth and affection by a very chatty man who immediately began to tell me , in detail, about the "community." 

Naturally occurring miracle in a tree

" We are in the middle of the movie industry", I was told. "Lots of people who work in the studios live here in their trailers and campers. Why, there is an author, very famous, who has lived here for a year, he says he can't write at home because his wife drives him crazy, so he lives here.  Also, traveling nurses and doctors, so feel safe."  Okay. 

Then, he pointed to two Emmy awards on a shelf above his head. Won, apparently by community members! Also, photos from TV shows .... on and on. I was hot, tired and stressed, but totally amused. He led us to our campsite, chatting all the way about the accomplishments of community members. "I am giving you Jesus," he said. I was too tired to ask ...

In our travels we have been to many and many different RV camps - but this was indeed unique. Lovely hand-painted murals of animals and nature appeared on walls and fences around the place. The bathroom was beautifully tiled and decorated with plants, and we were led to our site, (next to Jesus) and guided into position, had our connections set up by the local handyperson, and were repeatedly greeted by residents. Not the usual experience.

In the morning we set out to find a muffler place to help us diagnose and fix the van. There were several in the area - our second stop turned out to have been influenced by our miraculous positioning the night before. A small owner run shop raised Shelly (the van) onto a lift, tapped on the catalytic converter and determined that there was something loose rolling around, HAD THE REPLACEMENT PART ON HAND!!!!!, did the work, did a few other odd welding jobs for H, and had us back on the road, fixed and perky, in time for lunch.  Truly, a miracle. So, once again, the message is clear ... things work out - but Galpin Ford is deserving of a scathing YELP review.

We were back at Carpinteria State Park, walking on the beach and reveling in the beauty of the sun setting amid clouds, by 4 pm - with a deli lunch in our bellies. It felt like we had been gone a month.

Now, we plan to stay here, on the beach for at least the next week. I am quite in love with this place - the beach, the camp and the town, the library, the cafes, the farm cart,  the trees laden with citrus and avocados, the scents of sea, eucalyptus and guava, and the chance to see the sun set and the sun rise, from our mobile beach house.

Then, as H likes to say, "we'll see."


 

Solving Problems

Jan 8

The Boys at Sunset on Morro Bay Beach

It started right as we drove away from our lofty camp spot on Nacimiento Road – maybe related to the arduous climb up and brake straining trek back down. As we drove south on a windy day we began to notice a noise – wind like – from the truck, when driving up hill. Shortly, this was accompanied by a loss of power on hills too. Mechanical problems are not what we hope for when planning to travel and live in the camper. 

There was another, small problem too – while camping without service (electricity), we depend on the generator, and/or engine to power the fridge and the lights. During this time we noticed that the digital voltage readout had stopped charging.  This meant that without electricity, we were unable to charge second battery (the RV battery) that provides us with light and refrigeration. 

H (Car Guy extraordinaire) – spent several hours researching on line and determined that we needed a new solenoid to fix the problem. The generator, we also discovered did not work right either - roaring and spewing gas fumes. This, we learned required a new muffler, and the problem with the van seemed to be the catalytic converter. Oh, and one more thing. I dropped my I phone and smashed the screen. The insurance company would only send a replacement to a non-Apple Store related address. It was clear we needed to address these bumps in our road.

Taco Temple YUM!

So, we found an excellent RV park in Morro Beach – with full hookup and services, and spent a few days there, including New Years – ordering parts, having the Iphone delivered, researching Ford repair services and repairing the solenoid and the generator muffler.

Also,  enjoying the fabulous beaches, restaurants and shops in and around the area. The weather was quite cool, but still better by far than what we left at home. Morro Beach is right on the ocean, and famous for its BIG rock - visible for miles in every direction. It is also close to several other lovely towns further inland, and we took the opportunity to visit several. Is everywhere in California so beautiful?

On Tuesday, my new Iphone arrived, so, In spite of the motor noise and problems, somewhat intermittent, and with the solenoid replaced and power charging, we headed down the coast. We now had a Thursday AM appointment with Galpin Ford, in LA to fix the van problem, so we decided to take our time enjoying the coast while shortening the distance to LA.

I knew that there were hot spring pools just down the road in Avila. The day was glorious – hot and sunny. We camped overnight at a KOA next door to the springs, enjoyed a wonderful hike on the Bob Jones trail, and I spent the morning soaking in hot mineral water and sunshine. Then we headed out again - south toward LA.

H had found the perfect next stop. Carpinteria State Park, south of Santa Barbara. In Goleta, we stocked up at Costco and Trader Joe’s and headed to the beach.

We were unprepared for the STUNNING perfection of this park. Carpinteria State Park is my/our idea of paradise. When we arrived, around 3:30, the tide was out, the beach and sky spread before us under a perfectly clear sky. People were all along the beach, in the water, on the rocks, gathering shells and blissing out in the warm sunny air. Huge pelicans crashed into the ocean, seals lolled and dolphins swam up and down, and even did flips of joy. I wish I could do that! THIS place is what we have been seeking as snow birds. Paradise on the beach for $33 a night. 

I spent the afternoon walking along the beach – in the water warm enough to stand in – and everywhere, people stopped to talk with me. I photographed families, and even met a new friend, a woman gathering shells, with her two daughters. Each daughter had an infant wrapped to her chest, and several little boys clustered around (lucky woman). I learned that she too teaches art to children. We made a plan to meet in the morning and paint on the beach.

 Our camp spot afforded a wide open view of the setting sun – and the hour plus of afterglow time.  I could not stop taking pictures. Eating our dinner just feet from the sand, listening to the roar of the surf, we knew we had found a place where we want to spend some time, but first, we needed to get the camper fixed. So, the next morning, I made art with three other women, walked on the beach, and sadly, headed down the road. There was still a problem to solve.

 
 


 

Yes (big) Sur. We Had Fun Storming the Castle

Happy New Years. We are "back on the grid" after exciting days of adventure at Big Sur and San Simeon. Several days ago, I am losing track, we started our day at Pinto Lake Park, retraced our route back through Monterey and into Carmel. Since it was still within the Christmas weekend, and the weather was perfect, the small, gorgeous town was absolutely packed with people. The road into the town is lined with charming homes set into lush and lovely gardens. The atmosphere just oozes California. "Why don't we live here?" I keep asking. I guess the answer is simple ... millions of reasons.

As we went through town I spotted several art galleries (Carmel is noted for them). While H graciously circled in the camper (no where to even pull in, much less park) I visited two. The Gallery Elite took my breath away. Its a two story, collection of paintings by artists from around the world. A stunning gathering of color and landscape and style. Painting run in the tens of thousands ... next door was the Charles Schultz (peanuts) gallery, which I regret I could not stay long enough to explore. None the less, the painted beauty on the walls set the tone for what was to come next. BIG SUR.

We had been warned that Route One along the Pacific Coast is a rough road. It is. Miles of narrow, curving, climbing and plummeting. What no one adequately described is the STUNNING beauty of the views. On this perfect clear blue day, the sun polished the ocean to a silver sheen and threw handfuls of diamonds onto the surface, so bright it almost hurt my eyes. The ocean and the sky stretch endlessly, a thousand mile view. As H drove, I spotted whales, their spray and backs perfectly clear in the crystal air. We stopped to admire elephant seals lolling and honking on the beach and watched sea birds and surfers swooping in and out of the surf.

View from our camp on Nacimiento Road

Our goal was a campsite called Limekiln. I have stayed at a Limekiln camp in the San Juan's so this seemed like a good place. There is very little camping for RV's along this stretch of road, and no internet service. We were not able to make a reservation earlier, but chose what was the most logical stopping point in our schedule. We try to be camped before dark.

There were hordes of people along the route, crowding vistas, and the occasional café and service cluster.  There were many cars, but few
campers. It is easy to see that anything much bigger than our cute little camper would really struggle with this road.

Long story short, no room at the campsite. We were directed to Nacimiento-Ferguson Road, about three miles away, where we were told we could just park in any turnout and spend the night. The road made the highway seem like a straightaway. We climbed and climbed, curving around the gold and green hills into the mountains, in almost constant view of the ocean, still sparkling away. I was relieved to see that others were parked along the way, doing what we were doing.

Our site had a vista of the ocean between two hills - oh beauty. This was our first opportunity to camp off the grid; no services, no connections, depending only on the power and comfort of the camper. It was also a chance to try some of our gadgets (batteries) our for the first time. We parked just before sunset, the air so clear (and so warm) that I was able to see deer walking along the ridge far, far in the distance. The silence and peace wrapped itself around us and we spent a lovely night and early morning just drinking in the beauty.

Then, down the hill again - so steep the brakes were smoking hot. Next stop along the road, Hearst Castle, looming high on the hill. A stop at the visitor center yielded tickets for a Tuesday tour of the Grand Rooms (this was Sunday). After the crowded camping conditions above, we were concerned about what lay ahead - but three miles south of the castle, on a road where zebras (!) grazed in the hills, is San Simeon camp grounds. Beautiful, lots of available spaces, easy beach access, but no services. By the way, due to the drought, the only 'facilities' are "honey pots." There are faucets for drinking water however.  I find I like the lack of connection in every sense.

I think I want a pool like this

On Tuesday we had fun storming the castle and learning a little about William Randolph Hearst and Julia Morgan (his architect). If only for the ride up the hills over the ocean - five miles of snaking roads, it was worth the trip. The castle itself is beyond comprehension - and very interesting.

New Year's eve found us in need of recharging and refilling after our days in the wild. Morro Bay was the next big town. Who knew how beautiful it would be. So, here we are ... pix later. Enjoying yet another gorgeous blue sky day on the ocean - walking on the beach and eating delicious seafood. I even did two loads of laundry today, getting the year off to a clean start.

Its the beginning of a new year, new month, and new adventure. We will see what tomorrow brings. I can hardly wait.