Israel 6: The Dead Sea

This was one of the best and most anticipated parts of our trip. I have photographs of my mother grinning and slathered in the healing black mud associated with a visit to the Dead Sea spas. And, another, far more recent of my daughter in much the same pose. Also, I have pictures of them floating in the saline waters. I have always wanted to swim here.

One of the concerns I had about our trip was how we would get from place to place. As it turned out, and much to my relief, bus transportation was excellent and affordable. We took an early bus that brought us  past the beautiful Ein Gedi Kibbutz and gave us a look at Masada, a place we had hoped to visit. However, the outside temperature was 107 degrees. We took this ascent off our itinerary and headed to the beach and the hotel district in Ein Bokek. 

I had been concerned about the proper stop to get off, and had mentioned to Hank that I would ask the bus driver when we got closer to the area. However, as the Dead Sea came in sight, so did our hotel, the Crowne Plaza. I pointed this out to Hank, hopped up and got off the bus, assuming he was right behind. Our luggage was in the underbus storage - far in the back. I had managed to reach mine, and was going for H's when suddenly, the bus pulled away. "My husband is still on there," I exclaimed to the group of Hebrew speaking passengers who had disembarked with me. One offered his phone - but I figured (hoped?) H would notice I was gone. Anyway, I had my luggage, my passport and a reservation …

Several minutes after I rolled into the lobby, he arrived. Let's just say this is not the first time we've mixed our signals. 

The first thing that struck me about this area was its incredible color. The world looked like an abstract painting done in pastels. 

The view from our tenth story windows was a never ending pleasure. And so was the water - I could not get enough of the weirdly oily, warm, salty buoyant sea. Warning signs say to stay in no more than 30 minutes at a time, and there are clocks in easy sea view. I maxed out every time - then headed immediately to wash off in the beach showers. Any salt remaining quickly became pretzel type crystals. Kosher salt anyone? 


The other awesome amenity of our stay was the FOOD. We were really hungry for dinner on our first night. We had purchased dinner tickets, but were unprepared for the array of cold dishes arranged on buffet tables, hot foods of every description, and incredible desserts- all kosher. As I mentioned earlier, kosher food does not mix meat and dairy, so I was particularly impressed by the variety of creamy desserts made without cream. We could hardly wait to see what would appear on the breakfast buffet - now that we knew what an Israeli breakfast consists of. 

Our second night, Friday, was Israel Independence Day, the 70th anniversary. The hotel was filled with celebrants, and decked out in blue and white balloons. The dessert table did not disappoint.

This day, April 18, was also the anniversary of my mother's death. Walking through the lobby I came across a table covered in Yahrzeit (memorial candles). I am sure my mother was pleased and surprised to find her candle glowing in Israel this year.

This trip had so many wonderful moments - but the one that touched me most happened as I was walking out of the water after a mid morning dip. Many of the hotel guests were Russian speakers. I could not tell (or understand) if they were travelers or emigres, however, I noticed a group of about a dozen standing together in the water. As I passed them by, on this memorial day, I heard singing, and turned to see the group, now formed in a circle, singing Hatikvah, (the Hope) the Israel national anthem, in Hebrew, hands on heart. 

In the evenings, after dinner, Hank and I loved strolling out to the covered area over the water to watch the colors change as the day turn to evening. The air was soft, dry and warm. Sitting on the Israel side, we noticed lights coming on across the water …  easy swimming distance away - in Jordan, another country. Another world. I loved our three days here … 

5: Israel Museum

The Israel Museum is described as an Encyclopedic Collection. This means that it has an incredibly broad variety of exhibits, including Chanukah menorahs, actual parts of synagogues from other parts of the world, cultural clothing from many areas, archeological displays, paintings, sculpture, a beautifully painted Sukkah, necklaces worn by Jewish brides in Yemen; and a nail attesting to the practice of crucifixion in Jesus’ time. An urn-shaped building on the grounds of the museum, the Shrine of the Book, houses the Dead Sea Scrolls and artifacts discovered at Masada. 

The museum is on a hill with a sweeping view of Jerusalem. Since it was a beautiful Sunday morning, we decided to walk there from our hotel - about 30 minutes through lovely neighborhoods and a park, and right past the Knesset, the Israeli Supreme Court, and the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. Once at the museum we took advantage of several guided tours, learned a lot, and, at the end of a long day of walking around, took a cab back to our hotel in time to head out for dinner.

On a beautiful Sunday evening, the Jewish Quarter was lively with families, kids, music, shops and places to snack or dine. When we approached the restaurant we had chosen, we were greeted at the entrance by a young woman who handed us two menus - there were two separate restaurants here - one for meat, and one for dairy. This was a unique way to keep kosher - which requires the separation of milk and meat. We chose the meat side - filled with people of every age, and in a variety of head coverings - each which tells its own story about the identity of the wearer. I could not resist - I had chicken soup. It was great.

After dinner we headed back to our hotel to pack and get ready for the next stop on our adventure - the Dead Sea.

OLD CITY 4

The fabulous Shabbat of a Lifetime dinner meant that we got back to our hotel late - after midnight and very full of the great dinner. This did not bode well for a good night's sleep. Nonetheless, bright and early, or actually bleary and early, Hank headed down the street to bring us coffee to have with the pastries we had prepared on Friday - knowing that most places in the area would be closed for Shabbat. I sat on our balcony, enjoying breakfast and the peace of the quiet streets. Then we headed back to the Old City. Walking a different route, we entered the City via a flight of stairs in the same gold stone as the walls.

Our first stop was the City of David Museum to see the archaeological  excavations and the art  in the ancient citadel.  This visit involved endless stairs, but the walls made for great views of Jerusalem all around - a fascinating mix of the ancient and the modern world.

My next discovery, before heading back into the Souk (the covered market), is how delicious a combination of fresh squeezed orange and pomegranate juice can be when you are hot and thirsty. It was good that we refreshed ourselves, because on this Saturday, the souk was teeming with people.

One of the things that makes Jerusalem so intriguing is the mix of cultures,  religions, beliefs and costumes. On this day, a full spectrum was to be found. On the Via Dolorosa, (The Way of the Cross) where Christ is believed to have walked to the crucifixion, a large community of Christians were walking and kneeling the stations of the cross on one side of the narrow passage, while surging crowds of tourists, explored the shops on each side, and men and women in Arab garb bought vegetables and bread from the carts that barged through all. Overall, drums and music throbbed, people yelled, the sound, the heat and the intensity were hard to bear. Nonetheless, on our way out I managed to explore a few of the incredible variety of shops and goods to be had. 

We left the Old City through the Damascus Gate, which put us in the Arab Quarter in East Jerusalem - an authentic market lined with stalls of spices, coffee, bakeries, produce and lots more. From here, we walked up a long hill, back to our hotel - stopping for lunch - a gigantic, delicious and utterly fresh salad served with excellent bread. Then a nap.

At dinner time, as Shabbat was drawing to a close, we walked around our "neighborhood," Jaffa Square, through new and ancient streets and buildings. Dinner was at a Georgian Restaurant - Russian influences, in an old garden off the street. We ate a kind of dumpling - filled with meat and broth, and were informed that we ate them incorrectly - with knife and fork, instead on out of hands. Tourists!

We went back to the Old City on Monday - which turns out to be a Bar Mitzvah day. As we stood on the wall looking down, we heard music- loud, shofars blowing, drumming - and one after another joyful groups - each carrying canopies, under which the 13 year old boy was surrounded by loving and cheering family. The energy was palpable - what a way to become a man.

We then wandered the city through the Armenian Quarter and back to the Jewish Quarter where we talked with a young rabbinical student from New Jersey, studying in one of the Orthodox yeshivas here. It was wonderful to speak English and learn more about all that we were seeing. Then, back up the hill. We needed to make plans and reservations for the next part of our trip.


In my next post I will write about the Israel Museum …. stand by

Three: Old City Jerusalem

As we walked from our hotel towards the Jaffa Gate and our first steps into the Old City the walls begin to appear, ancient, golden, imposing. As soon as you enter the Gate, you are on David Street, a busy market with shops that sell religious items, souvenirs, maps, snacks, fresh squeezed juice and maps. Then you begin to pass into the Souk, a covered bazaar lined with shops and teeming with people. Watch your step on the cobbles and stairs. 

We followed signs, passing beautiful doorways and alleys, jewelry, leather, and embroidered goods, to a small side street that led to Ha-Kotel, the Western Wall. Once their, yelling men directed me to the Women's side. I washed my hands at an ancient well, and simply walked to the wall - where once both my mother and my daughter have been. I had some things to say there, among the crowd of women - at the wall, and in chairs. Then, I had a smiling picture taken - joyful to be here.

Click on the arrow to see a slide show of some of what we saw on this day.

Israel TWO: To Jerusalem April 19

Our hotel – GilGal is blocks from the beach, has beautiful mosaic art depicting bible scenes in several locations. It also has a roof garden with a spectacular view of the city and the Mediterranean Sea. And it was our introduction to the spectacular Israeli breakfast. I promise there will be lots more about food later - this photo is just one of the five laden with amazing things to eat.

View from rooftop

On our cab ride from the airport, our driver told us that today a siren would sound at precisely 10 AM – two minutes of silence in memory of the Holocaust. He told us that everyone throughout the country stops what they are doing and stands still. To be part of this, we climbed to the roof garden. The siren blared – cars on the street below stopped and people stepped out to stand together. I saw paddlers on the sea, stop and stand. I saw people on rooftops, in windows. I had goosebumps.

It was time to head to Jerusalem. 

 Any talk of travel and navigation is talk of Hank. In order to have access to all cellular data of maps and schedules, he purchased an Israeli data plan. This meant he could lead us to the correct bus stop, to the bus station, and to our perfectly timed bus to Jerusalem. And anywhere else we wanted to go. The bus station was our first opportunity to really see the young Israeli soldiers, men and women, with their big guns that swing from their shoulders like oversized purses.

The one hour trip brought us through amazingly lush  green and treed areas, and housing communities built from the golden stone that looks like they sprang from the hills. 

As it was Friday, and the start of Shabbat effects bus transportation, we took a cab to our Apartment Hotel – Hillel 11, in walking distance of the Old City and a great neighborhood. Thanks to all who made it clear we needed to be by the Jaffa Gate. This great location made our four days in Jerusalem perfect. Our lovely little apartment included a balcony where I could look out over the streets. 

After gathering a few supplies at the local bakery and grocery store for tomorrow, when many places would be closed, we walked down the hill, through the ultramodern, upscale Mamilla Mall, up ancient stairs and through the Jaffa Gate for our first visit to the Old City. Our goal was  the Western Wall. 

We spent four days in Jerusalem, three of them largely in the Old City - so I will write about our experiences in a separate piece. The next event on our calendar was to attend a Shabbat of a Lifetime dinner.

"The Shabbat of a Lifetime program offers an opportunity for incoming tourists of all backgrounds to experience an authentic Shabbat (Jewish Sabbath) at the home of a host family in the heart of Jerusalem. Shabbat of a Lifetime participants receive an informative introduction to Shabbat while dining on a five-course meal with their hosts." 

This had been recommended by our daughter, who had enjoyed hers. It turned out to be a highlight of our trip. We had been instructed to meet our host at the Museum of Islamic Art at 8 pm. This was about a half-hour walk through peaceful streets on a beautiful warm Shabbat evening. All around us families were walking too. To their own dinners we were sure. And everywhere we saw cats - many waiting patiently in groups for the dinners they hoped would appear from the homes that lined the streets.

The evening was a complete surprise. I had anticipated others like ourselves wanting to have a Jewish experience in Israel. Nine guests arrived to our meeting place - all early. A young Chinese man who works in Canada, traveling alone before he starts new job. “Are you Jewish – I asked. Why was he doing this?

Young blond couple from Netherlands – she a neurobiologist, he a new graduate wanting to learn more about Jewish culture through travel. A man from Netherlands- traveling alone, healing a broken heart. 

Two women from Yakima – evangelical Christians. One had been to Israel before. She had a message from God to come back, and bring her friend. Lovely women on a tour of religious and spiritual places. We later met them again on the street. 

A young woman from the Philippines who studies Hebrew at the University. She did not want to spend Shabbat alone. And Hank and me. 

I was the only Jew except for our hosts, Batya and Chaim, a couple in their 30’s, who have a 4 year old and baby daughter. This lovely family opened their home and provided a traditional Shabbat with Kiddush, and blessings over the challah and wine, and a full Friday night meal. I was astonished to see the table covered with small plates containing salads and pickles and hummus.  For me, the Israeli way of kosher eating was one of the great revelations of the trip. 

There was much information, and learning, and wonderful conversation that went beyond the time we were meant to leave. And an incredible creamy chocolate dessert that made me wonder how it could be part of a kosher meat meal. I had lots to learn.

A truly memorable evening. The perfect end to a perfect day in Jerusalem.

ISRAEL: Getting there and Day One April 10, 2018

I was nervous about going to Israel. I haven't flown in three years and I haven’t been out of the country for 10. At the same time I was thrilled to finally take the trip we've talked about for years. Our plan was to travel on our own - no tours, no car rentals.

To add to the stress, our El Al ticket details were changed several times in the days preceding our flight. Hank patiently and efficiently followed through with all the details.

I had the ultimate travel wardrobe, a guide book, travel apps, reservations and my camera cleared for endless photos. I may  have been nervous, but I was ready.

Corey arrived - in charge of the dogs and the house, we were off to PDX - JetBlue to JFK.

As soon as I got to the airport, I calmed down, enjoyed two thorough pat-downs at security, bought outrageously expensive bottles of water and a steamed bun, took my tabacum tablets (don’t leave home without them), and boarded the plane. I slept most of the way.

JFK to Ben Gurion – Tel Aviv

From Getty Images 

The scene at the international security gate at JFK resembled a herd of cattle moving along the lines. There were many Chasidic Jews among the crowd, headed back to Israel after Passover. In fact, there was an entire yeshiva of at least 200 boys, 14 – 18, dressed in traditional black coats, velvet yarmulkes, tall black hats, and immaculate white shirts with fringes hanging and pais dangling. This gangly, rambunctious group were all on our flight, in the back, with us. We had the very last seats in the rear – claustrophobia row. 

From the start, the boys were the entertainment. Since all came in wearing hats, several carrying hat boxes as well, the hats, the coats, the hatboxes, the luggage - all had to fit into the already packed overhead compartments.  

My mother’s Israel 1989 journal mentioned that on their El Al trips, religious men would stand for morning and evening prayers. On our flight, all the boys and all the men, three times, got up, opened the bins, retrieved coats and big hats, put them on and stood in the aisles and prayed. Then, off with the coats and hats, back into the bins, back into seats. This was a bumpy flight. They may have been pious, but they were also lively, creating havoc for exasperated flight staff. Anyway, they were a distraction. And I miraculously slept a great deal. We arrived at 5:00 AM Israel time. The sun had not yet risen.

Once through customs, Coffee – no Starbucks! Yes airport cafes with fresh baked breads and pastry. Taxi in the grey early morning to beautiful Hotel GilGal.

Too early to check in, we headed to the beach two blocks away, and, fairly exhausted, I took off my shoes, rolled up my pants and walked into the Mediterranean. My tiredness washed away - I never had jet lag. 

Photo from Museum Site

After settling in, we decided to walk to the Tel Aviv Museum of Art to see the collection of Israeli Art and The Modern and Contemporary paintings including work by many of my favorite painters. It is an extraordinary collection in an exquisite space. I absolutely loved the paintings – I saw works I knew, works I didn’t know by painters I did, and work by Kees Van Dongen, whose paintings of women – faces, and hat, I love, and have never seen real before. I spotted a lovely painting by Toulouse Lautrec – like seeing a familiar face in a crowd. And many beauties by Marc Chagall. 

From Museum Site

IIn one space there were four entirely different Picassos, shown together. In every way - the work in each exhibit was perfectly presented, ordered and shown – organized by color, theme, strokes, feeling, instead of by artist. This enhanced every aspect of the work and the experience. I was impressed.

While on the way to the museum, we realized that today, April 12 was Holocaust Remembrance Day: As we took our first walk through this new city, we kept hearing the intense roar of jet planes. Holy crap – We just got here and its war!  At an angle between buildings, we saw what we were hearing – group after group of F18 fighter jets zooming across the sky. As we joined the people peering up, a woman behind me, tapped me on the shoulder and said “don’t worry – it’s only the army doing a display in honor of the day.” I have to say, it felt pretty great to see the demonstration of strength.

In the evening we found a nearby restaurant – the least good meal of the trip, and went back to the beach to watch the sunset and the wonderfully varied crowds out for a stroll, walk, bike ride, jog, or swim on a gorgeous Tel Aviv evening.

January 2018

We got an early start this year, taking advantage of clear weather and above freezing temperatures to head down I-5 instead of the usual longer, lower routes to California.

It’s always hard work to get everything done and ready to leave, but the sunny weather counteracted any tiredness and we made it all the way to Medford in time to settle in to a Walmart Superstore parking lot before dark. The perfect place to ring in the new year 🙄

The morning was thick with fog, but as soon as we started over the passes, the sky was crystal blue and cloudless - or rather, we were above the clouds. New Years Day brought us to the casino in Corning, where we have stated before.  It’s a beautiful place to stop, shower in their deluxe facilities and rest up. And get soda from the amazing computerized Coke machine.

Jan 2, another fine day for travel, brought us to Gustine, and a park on a reservoir we have been before. Here, instead of gamblers, we saw elk and birds and hiked rolling gold hills and slept 10 hours in the deep quiet.  In the morning, steak and eggs for breakfast at Harris Ranch.

Thus fortified we hit the road for our destination- Carpinteria State Beach. It was a long trip - made easier by the great book we’ve been listening to - The Source.  And we made it! By 4 o’clock we were strolling the beach delighted by the return of the sand which had disappeared last year. However, arriving here brought us through areas scarred by recent fires - burned trees along the edge of the road, blackened hills and numerous signs thanking firefighters and first responders

This place is still beautiful- the sky all fone in pearly pastels to welcome us. It feels like coming home